Friday Brew Review: BRRRBON

The economy has yet to recover from its monumental floundering in 2008. Most jobs are in short supply. Other Jobs are dead. Nations are entangled in conflicts its citizens don’t understand, don’t believe in, and don’t want to fight. Hordes of the disgruntled are flooding streets, occupying major metropolitan areas and declaring their dissatisfaction. Tumult is proliferating at unprecedented rates.

And yet, it’s Friday. Love is still free to give and receive. Guitars still vibrate-melodious. High-fivin’ a buddy still feels awesome. Even in these most turbulent of times, persistent are those little reminders of why we persevere. It’s one thing to acknowledge the human spirit, but entirely another to know its power.

I know that the general consensus is that everything’s awful and I’m supposed to check my optimism at the door. But I’m not going to.  Tonight, I’m taking a stand against the tyranny of our times. It’s Friday, goddamn it, and I’m going to enjoy my life for what it is and what it can be! Though my flesh-vehicle betrays me and society’s crumbling, art and beauty and truth still exist.

As does beer.

So, in the midst of existential collapse, I sip on BRRRBON.

This sweet elixir is a product of Widmer Brothers Brewing, hailing from Portland, Oregon. Although the Widmers pride themselves on regularly offering a wide variety of craft beers, they decided to up the ante by releasing BRRRBON in 2010. In fact, this brew is atypical both in its production as well as its finite availability.

To clarify, the brewery used the side of the packaging to provide the following description:

For this special release, we’ve taken our winter seasons BRRR and aged it in Kentucky bourbon barrels. Hidden in the beautiful dark amber color are aromas of vanilla and caramel that complement perfectly the presence of bourbon. Soft oak flavors transition into a sweet yet slightly dry finish. After aging the ale for four months, the malt and hop complexity of BRRR has melded harmoniously with the bourbon barrels and become a truly one of a kind beer.

With bourbon being my favorite spirit and beer my regular Friday potion, test-driving BRRRBON was an absolute no-brainer.

Before imbibing, I wanted to give this whiskey-bred ale a thorough inspection. Pouring it into a standard drinking glass, I took note of the deep amber hue – certainly darker than most run-of-the-mil beers, but far from a stout or porter. Dropping my schnoz right above the dense head, I took a solid whiff. What I smelled was very, very appealing – a bready sweetness with an acerbic alcoholic quality cutting through periodically.

Even before drankin’, I could tell that BRRRBON weren’t no bogus keg-beer.

Just to make sure, I bent the elbow and tossed back the Widmer Brothers’ limited edition experiment. At first, I was pretty underwhelmed. Historically, the bourbon-inspired brews I’ve consumed have been dark, rich, and devastating. BRRRBON, on the other, first hit my palate with a yeast-right hook, followed by light bread-jabs, and hard “standard-beer” shove. It wasn’t what I expected, and I began to feel disappointment wash over me. Yet another beer, I sighed, that just doesn’t do it for me.

Then it happened.

There was a warmth in the back of my throat and it made me feel good. Not in the same way as sorority sisters during pledge-week. No, this was a warming reaffirmation, a reminder that the potable before me had gestated in a bourbon womb. Returning to the bottle’s open mouth, I was better suited to detect the spirits-inherent, of which there were many. My exhalations transmuted into dragon’s-breath, and I noticed some subtle vanilla tones. Flavor-wise, BRRRBON was a winner.

However, the brew didn’t know what it was when it came to mouthfeel and texture. BRRRBON had barely any carbonation at all, suggesting aspirations of bourbon-style boss-status. On the other hand, the liquid wasn’t potent enough to be anything other than a strong beer. As such, beer-drankers and whiskey-shooters may both be turned off by the concoction, as it fails to wholly satisfy either set of desires.

Me? I’m down with BRRRBON, as it attempts to bridge the gap between beer and liquor. If you’re interested in a full-flavored brew that warms the throat and heart and soul, look no further.

The grade: SOLID-B